One year I’ll shock you all and not leave making my birthday dress until the last minute and actually finish it before the day. This year was not that year. But hey, better late than never, right?
I bought this crinkle viscose fabric from The New Craft House in east London when I bought my new sewing machine. For a person who wears a lot of red I own surprisingly little pink so this was a bit of an impulse purchase. Because of that I had no plan for what to make.
Enter stage left: that vogue dress with the plunge. I made this last year out of quilting cotton and love it. You can find the blog post about it here.
As I have made the dress before I didn’t want it to be exactly the same so I made a few tweaks.
- I shortened the hem by a LOT so it was above the knee. This was particularly necessary as I only had 1.5m of 1.4m wide fabric.
- I added a gathered ruffle to the hem.
- I shortened the sleeves to above the elbow.
- I omitted the waist tie (I did this on the last one too as I don’t like them.
My aim was to end up with a dress which you wouldn’t instantly know was the same as my red dress and I think thanks to the tweaks and the drapier fabric. One tweak that wasn’t intentional was a sewed the skirt on back to front. I did consider changing it as the side seams don’t match up but I just wasn’t that interested in doing it.
How to sew a ruffle hem
Adding a ruffle to a hem of any skirt is super simple. This tutorial will work for any woven fabric.
- Cut a piece of fabric 1.5 times the length of the hem. (This can be in two pieces if your skirt has a front and back piece.)
- Sew the short edges together to make a tube.
- I skipped ahead to hemming at this point as I knew I wanted this depth ruffle but if you are unsure skip this step.
- Stitch 2 lines of long stiches 0.8cm and 1.3cm from the edge. If your piece is super long do this in two sections to make gathering easier.
- Pull both threads at the same time to gather and even out the gathers along the length of the fabric.
- When the gathered piece is as long as the hem of the skirt pin right sides together at the gathered edge.
- Stitch with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Do not cut the under layer before stitching in case you want to change where you want it to go.
- When you are happy with how it sits trim the excess from the under layer and finish the seam with an overlocker or zigzag stitch.
- Finish the hem if you didn’t before.
I hope that makes sense! Now all that’s left to do is sashay around like the queen you are in your ruffle dress of dreams.